Great Cabernet Sauvignon for under $20 -- The Hunt Begins

It’s Labor Day weekend, and for those of us who aren’t vegetarians, that means one thing: steaks on the grill.  And, in eyes of this observer, chowing down on a good steak is still the quintessential time to pop the cork on a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon.  The meat soaks up the tannins of Cabernet, and the darker flavors of the wine seem to bring out the best in the beef.

Consequently, in recent weeks I’ve been searching for great Cabernets that also represents terrific value.  I started the investigation in Washington State, which can be a happy hunting ground for bottles that punch above their weight in terms of QPR (Quality-Price Ratio).  Often, wines from Washington combine the great fruit of New World wines with the structure and elegance of Old World styles.  This is what I was hoping to find this time out; a knockout wine at a great price. 

Sad to say that the results thus far have not yielded exactly what I was looking for.  So, since the Voyager doesn’t want to leave you high and dry on this special holiday, I took some detours and ventured beyond Washington to see if we could come up with something that might fit the bill.  Here’s what I discovered on this part of the journey…

2011 Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon:  Fairly deep plum color.  Red fruits – especially raspberry – are more prominent than the rather muted cassis in the background.  Red fruits are also more emphatic on the palate.  In the past, I’ve always enjoyed CSM wines from Indian Wells, but this is a bit bland.  Query: would I even recognize this as a Cab if I were tasting it blind?  Not bad, but below standard from this winery and this vineyard.  **

A favorite from the past that was a little sub-par this time

2011 Barnard Griffin Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley, Washington):  I’ve liked wines from this vintner in the past, but they seem to have lost their distributor in Colorado, so when I saw a bottle in a store that I don’t typically frequent, I jumped on it.  Medium garnet, with a fairly shy nose of blackcurrant and subtle oak at first.  Opened out to sweeter red fruit scents and even hints of molasses later.  Both red and black fruits on the palate, with strong black licorice flavors.  This is tannic stuff, pretty stern – definitely needs a steak to cut through to the fruit.  It became a little less unyielding with air, and grew much softer and rounder after one day under gas.  In fact, after being preserved for one night, I think I might have mistaken this for an Aussie Shiraz.  An interesting evolution, but neither iteration of this wine truly left me wanting more.   Not bad, but not the wine I was seeking.  **1/2

A charitable observer might call the black-and-white labels used by the Charles Smith winery as "bold," or "different."  The Voyager has some other words in mind...

2012 Charles Smith Chateau Smith Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley, Washington):  Medium garnet.  Red berry fruits, red currant aromas, with some vanilla and sandelwood at first; with air, briary tones, but with some sweetness and earthy funk as well.  What might sound like complexity was really just all over the place and a bit unfocused.  Big sweet fruit on the attack; maybe a bit confected (see below)?  Drier through the mid-palate and finish.  Another wine made in the style of an Australian Shiraz.  Query: is this a trend in winemaking in Washington State?  If so, it’s worrisome, as it’s not what has made Washington wines so special in the past.  **1/2

Another winery that has produced fine wines in the past, but wasn't quite up to snuff  on this occasion...

2011 Ex Libris Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington):  Medium garnet (that phrase is beginning to seem like part of a template, isn’t it?).  Very shy on the nose; some red fruits, some hints of vanilla, but not at all forthcoming.  Red fruits flavors slightly more on show.  Has some elegance, but not many dimensions.  Pleasant enough, but a bit dull.  Another winery I’ve liked in the past that under-delivered on this occasion.  **1/2

So, since Washington State didn’t really yield the goods this time, what can we pour that will be a little more exciting?  Let’s head to Argentina for a moment, and try another Bordeaux grape that’s found a home in South America.  Everyone loves Malbec at the moment – and who can blame them?

2013 Altos La Hormigas Clasico Malbec:  Medium ruby.  Brambly earth tones on the nose, with strong scents of licorice and cola.  Red berry scents emerge with air.  Dark fruit on the attack; finish marked by an earthier element, but not unpleasant. Well-balanced.  Back when I worked in the trade, we would have called this a “juicy” wine.  It’s an example of how Malbec found such huge favor in the marketplace: immediately accessible fruit up front, but backed up by structure and complexity.  Fine at $11.99 (regular price); exceptional at the case price of $9.99.  Altos Las Hormigas, a winery with a very good track record, continues to excel.  ***

(Wine Word of the Day – CONFECTED: We say that a wine is confected when it has been made in such a way as to emphasis sweeter fruit flavors at the expense of other elements.  A confected wine sometimes tastes as if it's been manipulated too much in the cellar, and so doesn’t put forward a true representation of the place where the grapes have been grown.  Many consumers like that blast of sweet fruit, but for the Voyager, these bottles aren’t really what wine should be about.)

So no real home runs this time – but the hunt for the great value Cab will continue.  Check this space…

Coming Home (to Chardonnay):

Over the past year, I’ve been exploring lots of white wines from different parts of the world – including Argentina, Italy, Spain, and the Loire.  The variety of excellent whites available to today’s wine drinker is both expansive and impressive.  The one thing almost all of my selections have in common is that I have, for the most part, been staying away from Chardonnay.  Although I love Chardonnay, I made a conscious decision to see what else was out there, and the trip has been wonderful. 

We’ll get back on the roads less traveled soon; every now and then, however, every voyager has to spend a night or two at home.  And, as we’ll see so often, it pays to re-visit the classics from time to time.

Burgundy is the place where Chardonnay started its all-conquering journey through the world of wine, and there’s a reason it remains the touchstone for this great varietal.  Burgundy is both the literal and spiritual home of Chardonnay because the terroir – that elusive combination of soil, climate, exposure, altitude, drainage and the touch of an enlightened winemaker – yields wines of grace, complexity, balance and subtlety. 

There are two problems that confront those who would investigate this amazing region.  The first is that both red and white Burgundy from the best vineyards tend to be quite expensive.  Also, because the production of the typical Burgundian winery is quite small, especially when compared to areas like Bordeaux or the most well-known vineyards in California, finding a good Burgundy can be a little bit like trying to make one’s way through a maze.  Even if you know which producers are making good Burgundy, the chances of finding a bottle at your local wine store are slim, unless you happen to live around the corner from the best wine merchants in Manhattan. 

The problem of expense can be solved, at least in part, by searching out the lesser-known communes within Burgundy.  For whites, one of my favorites has always been Saint-Veran.  Made in the Cote Chalonnais, these wines may lack the ethereal complexity of the best whites from Burgundy’s famed Cote d’Or (e.g., Puligny-Montrachet), but the truth is that they are nonetheless excellent examples of food-friendly and refined Chardonnay.  If you’re going with a simple roast chicken, these are the wines that will set the benchmark for this particular food-and-wine pairing.  They are also an excellent match for most sushi dishes. 

Another introduction to white Burgundy that won’t deplete your bank account too much is Mâcon-Villages.  The typical Mâcon is a sturdy version of Chardonnay, giving hints of what the grape can do at its best, with some complexity and a nice ability to marry foods like less-spicy chicken dishes and shellfish.  There are also several examples of Mâcon wines that are readily available, and that you should find on the shelves of your local wine seller. 

Here are some thoughts on less-costly white Burgundies I’ve tasted recently…

An excellent wine from a lesser-knowm commune in Burgundy

2011 Domaine de la Denante Saint-Veran (Burgundy, France):  Lovely gold color.  Open aromas of peach and burnished brass.  Nicely-judged oak imparts vanilla scents as well.  Hints of citrus emerge with air.  Soft, with a rather creamy texture, but enough acid to hold it all together.  Subtle, elegant wine, with a real Burgundian feel.  Saint-Veran is an underrated commune, and this is a terrific example.  Quietly impressive, it was wines like this that made me fail in love Chardonnay during my happily misspent youth.  ***1/2 - ****

Two heavyweight negociants duke it out in the latest wine face-off...

Mano a Mano in Mâcon

Negociant is a term you will hear quite frequently in discussions of French wine.  Negociants are firms that make most of their wine by purchasing grapes from growers.  Although many such firms also own some vineyards, they make larger amounts of wine from purchased grapes.  In some cases, they will even buy young wines from smaller vintners and “raise” the wine, aging it in oak or stainless steel and bottling it under their own label. 

In Burgundy, two of the most well-known negociants are Joseph Drouhin and Louis Jadot.  Both own some superb grand cru vineyards, but their entry-level wines are made from purchased grapes.  Here’s the result of a face-off I conducted between the current releases of Mâcon-Villages from both houses.  I’ll reveal my plebian origins when I tell you that both wines were tasted with fried chicken…

 2012 Joseph Drouhin Mâcon-Villages (France):  Medium-depth yellowish-gold.  Lemon and dry grass scents on a nose that is rather shy at first.  After it’s been open for a while, pear and apple scents come to the fore.  With some air, there’s a slightly oily note that shows itself; a little idiosyncratic, but not unpleasant.  Some orange peel on the palate.  At first, an ever-so-slightly bitter note on the finish, which dissipated with oxygen.  This wine seemed a bit disjointed initially, with its different elements at odds with one another.  It became much more integrated with time in the glass.  Lighter in body than the Jadot, but only by a hair.  Perhaps one or two fewer dimensions, but still quite a pleasant drink.  ***

2012 Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages (France): Fairly deep greenish-gold.  Brass, new-mown hay and apple aromas.  Some citrus on the palate, followed by a rich, buttery finish.  More volume and richness than the Drouhin, with nice hints of minerality.  Query: does this wine spend any time in oak?  There seems to be a bit of well-integrated oak here.  The Jadot is bolder than the Drouhin, but still has subtlety and character.  Scents of earth emerge with time, as well as a slight oily note on the finish. 

Very nice indeed.  ***1/2

And what happened the next day…?

After spending one night under gas, the complexion of this contest between two prominent Mâcons underwent a change.  When first opened, there was a clear verdict: although both wines were of high quality, the Jadot was fuller, richer, and more multi-dimensional.  These qualities remained on the second day, but the Drouhin melded together, and Jadot’s margin of victory was considerably smaller.  The Drouhin added degrees of elegance and balance that were impressive, and an interesting spicy note came in as well.  It was also a better match with sushi (salmon and shrimp).  The Jadot was still complex, but was just a trifle brash with the sushi. 

And, as a bonus, here’s another lovely little wine from Mâcon, one that’s especially suited to readers with an eye for value…

2012 Cave de Lugny La Cote Blanche Mâcon-Villages:  Fairly rich golden color.  Peach, Golden Delicious apples and tropical fruits, with a touch of brass as well, on the nose.  A bit more citrus on the palate, but backed up by a nice, rich fruit-salad aspect.  Not subtle, perhaps, but thoroughly pleasant and a very good value at $10.49.  Solid chardonnay for pennies.  A good match with salmon sushi.  ***

Anything But Chardonnay, Part III: Godello

Until recently, most white wines from Spain hadn’t caught on with vinous aficionados in the USA.  There were reasons for this; some of the wines being marketed here twenty years ago were flabby and dull.  Nowadays, however, Spanish vintners are paying attention to previously neglected grapes, and using modern techniques in the cellar to produce wines of increasing sophistication.  Many wines now emerging from the Iberian peninsula unquestionably deserve our attention.

Foremost of these are bottlings made from the Godello (go-DAY-oh) grape.  I first encountered a Godello about three years ago at the Med Restaurant in downtown Boulder.  I was looking for something refreshing as an aperitif, and the sommelier was offering a Godello as a by-the-glass pour.  I tried it, and it’s now one of my go-to whites for summer drinking.

Here are two excellent examples that will broaden your horizon without busting your budget…

2011 Rafael Palacios Sabrego Godello (Valdeorras, Spain):  Deep yellow-gold.  Forthcoming lemon and mineral scents; floral aromas and tropical fruits join the symphony as the wine opens out.  Creamy texture.  Crisp, light and clean.  The individual elements are all there, but the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.  ****

2012 Valdesil Montenovo Godello (Valdeorras, Spain):  Rich yellow-gold.  Tropical fruits and new-mown hay.  Rich, but still light on its feet.  As with the best wines, balance is all.  More than enough weight and acid for food.  I served this at a dinner party with friends, one of whom grilled some delicious Tunisian chicken kebabs and a grilled vegetable salad.  The wine was a terrific match, and a hit with those on hand.  Everyone loved the crispness of the Valdesil.  ****

Both of these wines retailed for $16.99, but I got them for $13.59 after a healthy case discount.  A steal at the price!  Serve with roast chicken or shellfish and you won’t be disappointed. 

Steven Spurrier, the noted columnist for the excellent UK wine magazine Decanter, feels that Godello is one of Spain’s preeminent white grapes.  I wholeheartedly concur.  These wines provide ample evidence of Godello’s growing stature.

FAQs, Volume I: The Riddle of the Unfinished Bottle…and some notes on inert gas

Well, it’s early in the life of this blog, so in this case a single inquiry constitutes a frequently-asked question.  My long-time friend Bruce Grossberg tuned in to The Vinous Voyager and noticed that I often refer to wine that has been “under gas” in my reviews.  It sounds a little sinister, but it’s really pretty innocuous, and has to do with a query that I used to hear pretty frequently when I worked in wine retail.  Often, if someone is dining alone, and can’t finish an entire bottle, they wonder if there is some way to keep the wine fresh. 

There are a couple of options available if you have an unfinished bottle.  I used to use a device called a Vacu Vin.  It’s essentially just a rubber stopper with a small slit in the top and a plastic pump.  You pump the air out of the wine by hand, and it prevents the wine from oxidizing.  This worked pretty well for me when I lived at sea level – but it’s less effective here in Colorado, where the air pressure is different. 

Consequently, I followed the advice of my former boss Scott Haveness, and started to use Private Preserve, which is an inert gas.  You simply spray two or three times into the bottle, while holding the cork on the edge of the opening – and re-inserting the cork as quickly as possible after you’re done spraying.  So, when you see a reference in my tasting notes to a wine that has been “under gas,” this simply means that I’ve used this inert material to keep the wine from spoiling.

For that unfinished bottle: The Vinous Voyager's wine preservative of choice...

I find that Private Preserve works quite well here in the mountains.  It keeps the wine tasting recognizably the same – but with a little twist.  In my experience, a tiny bit of oxygen usually manages to make its way into the bottle after I’m done spraying.  This seems to mimic the effect of decanting; wines that have been under gas sometimes gain some interesting aromas and flavors that would normally emerge only after having been open for many hours – or having spent some time in the cellar.  It seems to speed up the evolution of the wine a bit, which is a nice fringe benefit. 

I’ve had wines that have stayed in good shape for four or five days when I’ve used Private Preserve.  Nobody’s paying me to say this, but I think it’s a great tool for wine-lovers. 

(For the record, no one has yet tried to bribe The Vinous Voyager.  We’ll see if I keep my integrity intact when the readership increases and producers start to offer me blandishments…)