Rioja to the rescue!

Two outstanding examples from Spain's most prestigious wine region

The Voyager has been returning to some old favorites lately in an attempt to ward off the post-holiday doldrums.  Fortunately, many of these classics provide ideal wines for drinking in the dismal winter months that stretch from January through March.  Is it any surprise that some of the best wines I’ve tasted lately hale from Rioja in Spain? 

By now, those of you who have been keeping up with the Voyager on his vinous peregrinations know that the two key attributes for me are balance and elegance.  This is where Rioja excels; few wine-growing regions embody these essential elements of quality with more fidelity. 

Spanish wine laws mandate specific amounts of aging, both in barrels and in bottle, for wines that are to be labeled Reserva or Gran Reserva.  Consequently, when you purchase these wines, they have some of the benefits that age can confer on a fine wine.  Additional bottle age often transforms them into something truly ethereal (see the Voyager’s previous post on the 2001 Faustino I Gran Reserva given as a gift by his dear friend David Brenner), but even the younger Reserva wines have usually taken on some outstanding secondary characteristics. 

With this in mind, and with the cold weather blues nipping at his heels, the Voyager decided to try two slightly younger Reservas from this sterling region.  Were they good?  Suffice it to say that any lingering effects from Seasonal Affective Disorder were promptly banished!

This fairly young Reserva has already blossomed into something gorgeous

 2010 Bodegas Muga Reserva (Rioja, SPAIN):  Fairly deep garnet.  Some typical tempranillo aromas – cherries, leather and violets – but really interesting scents of redcurrant, kirsch and mocha come in with a bit of air.  A bit of vanilla from very subtle oak enters as well.  Delicious red fruit on the palate, with lovely balance.  An excellent example of the finely-tuned edge between elegance and power that is a hallmark of modern Rioja.  ****

Another gem from vineyards close to the Ebro River

2008 Marques de Riscal Reserva (Rioja, SPAIN):  Medium ruby, with some brown on the rim.  Interesting aromas of smoke, leather, cherries, and nutmeg.  Orange rind and sour cherry on the palate.  Nicely integrated; quite fine, if perhaps not as rich or complex as the 2010 Muga Reserva. ***1/2 -

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