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Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Is Oregon still a vinous orphan?



Considering all the plaudits that have been heaped upon it by the press, one would think that Oregon Pinot Noir would have long since established itself pretty firmly in the mind of the wine-drinking public.  And yet, in my current gig as a salesman at an establishment known for fine wine, I’ve been surprised how many times I’ve been greeted by mild consumer resistance when I’ve suggested bottles from Oregon.  It’s very subtle: a slightly raised eyebrow, accompanied by a few words – “Oregon…  really?”  Although there are a few cognoscenti who come in looking for superb offerings from this area, there is a significant segment of the public for whom fine American wine still means California, no matter what varietal they seek. 

Of course, Oregon is one of the places on the planet where Pinot Noir truly thrives.  More than one Burgundian vintner has set up shop in the Willamette Valley, which should surely be a clue for the rest of us that this is a spot where the grape is supremely well-adapted.  For me, it’s always been one of my go-to spots whenever I’m in the mood for a fine Pinot. 

Since I’m now back in the business of recommending selections for the wine-drinking public, I thought it might be worthwhile to re-visit two of my favorites from the past to see if they’re still worthy.  I’m happy to say that they’re both still offering the goods.

Light in color and body, but oh so elegant
 2010 Maysara Jamsheed Pinot Noir Montazi Vineyard (McMinnville AVA, Oregon):  Pale ruby.  Earthiness dominates here, accompanied by sour cherry notes at first, followed by sweeter cherry scents after it had opened up.  Subtle spice fragrances underneath.  A bit dull on the palate at first, but sweeter fruit emerges after about an hour of air.  Later still, some intriguing floral elements.  I had this wine shortly after its release, and liked it very much.  At present, it’s lost a bit of energy, but is still a lovely, truly elegant Pinot at an attractive price.  NOTE: after one day under Private Preserve gas, the wine yielded a treasure trove of floral aromas, with abundant sandalwood tones.  Ultimately tips the scale at ***1/2.

Structured and rich
2012 Cooper Mountain Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, Oregon):  Medium plum – fairly dark for a Pinot, actually.  Still rather shy on the nose initally.  Some sweet cherry and rhubarb at first.  Opened out to darker scents – even some graphite.  Eventually, big floral notes – especially rose – come forth, along with sandalwood.  Not insubstantial tannic grip on the palate, with more sweet cherry flavors.  Lots of substance here, with the lovely purity that biodynamic wines so often display.  I am normally not the biggest fan of Pinot Noir, unless it’s of very high quality – this is a wine that makes me see why so many people are attracted to Pinot.  ****

So here are two lovely, albeit quite contrasting wines; both good, even if they're at opposite ends of the spectrum.  Oregon is still ground zero for American Pinot, and from what I've tasted, the best is yet to come as the area matures.  

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