Considering all the plaudits that have
been heaped upon it by the press, one would think that Oregon Pinot Noir would
have long since established itself pretty firmly in the mind of the
wine-drinking public. And yet, in my
current gig as a salesman at an establishment known for fine wine, I’ve been
surprised how many times I’ve been greeted by mild consumer resistance when
I’ve suggested bottles from Oregon. It’s
very subtle: a slightly raised eyebrow, accompanied by a few words – “Oregon… really?”
Although there are a few cognoscenti
who come in looking for superb offerings from this area, there is a
significant segment of the public for whom fine American wine still means
California, no matter what varietal they seek.
Of course, Oregon is one of the places
on the planet where Pinot Noir truly thrives.
More than one Burgundian vintner has set up shop in the Willamette
Valley, which should surely be a clue for the rest of us that this is a spot
where the grape is supremely well-adapted.
For me, it’s always been one of my go-to spots whenever I’m in the mood
for a fine Pinot.
Since I’m now back in the business of
recommending selections for the wine-drinking public, I thought it might be
worthwhile to re-visit two of my favorites from the past to see if they’re
still worthy. I’m happy to say that
they’re both still offering the goods.
Light in color and body, but oh so elegant |
Structured and rich |
2012
Cooper Mountain Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, Oregon): Medium plum – fairly dark
for a Pinot, actually. Still rather shy
on the nose initally. Some sweet cherry
and rhubarb at first. Opened out to
darker scents – even some graphite.
Eventually, big floral notes – especially rose – come forth, along with
sandalwood. Not insubstantial tannic
grip on the palate, with more sweet cherry flavors. Lots of substance here, with the lovely
purity that biodynamic wines so often display.
I am normally not the biggest fan of Pinot Noir, unless it’s of very
high quality – this is a wine that makes me see why so many people are
attracted to Pinot. ****
So here are two lovely, albeit quite contrasting wines; both good, even if they're at opposite ends of the spectrum. Oregon is still ground zero for American Pinot, and from what I've tasted, the best is yet to come as the area matures.
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