Until recently, most white wines from
Spain hadn’t caught on with vinous aficionados in the USA. There were reasons for this; some of the
wines being marketed here twenty years ago were flabby and dull. Nowadays, however, Spanish vintners are
paying attention to previously neglected grapes, and using modern techniques in
the cellar to produce wines of increasing sophistication. Many wines now emerging from the Iberian
peninsula unquestionably deserve our attention.
Foremost of these are bottlings made from
the Godello (go-DAY-oh) grape. I first
encountered a Godello about three years ago at the Med Restaurant in downtown
Boulder. I was looking for something
refreshing as an aperitif, and the sommelier was offering a Godello as a
by-the-glass pour. I tried it, and it’s
now one of my go-to whites for summer drinking.
Here are two excellent examples that
will broaden your horizon without busting your budget…
2011
Rafael Palacios Sabrego Godello (Valdeorras, Spain): Deep yellow-gold. Forthcoming lemon and mineral scents; floral
aromas and tropical fruits join the symphony as the wine opens out. Creamy texture. Crisp, light and clean. The individual elements are all there, but
the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.
****
2012
Valdesil Montenovo Godello (Valdeorras, Spain): Rich yellow-gold. Tropical fruits and new-mown hay. Rich, but still light on its feet. As with the best wines, balance is all. More than enough weight and acid for
food. I served this at a dinner party
with friends, one of whom grilled some delicious Tunisian chicken kebabs and a
grilled vegetable salad. The wine was a
terrific match, and a hit with those on hand.
Everyone loved the crispness of the Valdesil. ****
Both of these wines retailed for $16.99,
but I got them for $13.59 after a healthy case discount. A steal at the price! Serve with roast chicken or shellfish and you
won’t be disappointed.
Steven Spurrier, the noted columnist for
the excellent UK wine magazine Decanter,
feels that Godello is one of Spain’s preeminent white grapes. I wholeheartedly concur. These wines provide ample evidence of
Godello’s growing stature.
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