Twenty years ago, no one was talking
about Italian whites. Then the Pinot
Grigio fad began – and lasted, perhaps, for longer than was really
warranted. For many people, Pinot Grigio
is still the most recognizable face of Italian whites – but the Vinous Voyager
is determined to let you in on some secrets.
And here is the very best Italian white that’s still flying below radar
in the USA…
A
gentle debate in Southern Italy
I have had several Greco di Tufos from
the Campania in the past few years, and so, when searching for alternatives to
Chardonnay, this grape came to mind immediately. I recently tasted two of the best examples,
and was richly rewarded for my efforts. These wines were tasted together, with
the test dish being chicken and mixed vegetables in a wine sauce, with some
cauliflower on the side.
2011
Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy): Quite rich yellow-gold
color. Typical honeysuckle notes, with
wild flowers and yellow pepper aromas – although the nose is a bit shy at
first. Creamy texture, with some mineral
flavors – even a bit of a metallic taste on the mid-palate. Subtle, elegant and quite good.
*** ½
2012
Terredora di Paolo Loggia Della Serra Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy): Lovely yellow-gold, a shade
lighter than its counterpart from Feudi di San Gregorio. Powerful honeysuckle, white fruits and
wildflower aromas opened up quickly. Some
citrus notes as the wine airs out. More
honey on the palate, with satin texture and substantial weight – yet retaining
an airy, lifted quality. This is one of
the qualities that make Greco a standout varietal – at its best, as here, it
has real body -- but also genuine elegance and sophistication. ****
These were both serious and immensely
enjoyable wines. The Terredora di Paolo wins; it has both
more generosity and balance. This,
however, is one of those competitions where they may be a winner, but there are
truly no losers. If your wine shop only
has the Feudi di San Gregorio, don’t
despair – you’re still in for a treat.
The first time I tasted a Greco, I
remember thinking: “where have you been all my life?” I still feel that way; for me, Greco is the
greatest Italian white – food-friendly, with an impressive marriage of power
and grace. As complex as white
Burgundy? No, but it’s still
multi-dimensional and very good value.
(And it puts most Pinot Grigios in the shade…)
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