It’s Labor Day weekend, and for those of
us who aren’t vegetarians, that means one thing: steaks on the grill. And, in eyes of this observer, chowing down
on a good steak is still the quintessential time to pop the cork on a bottle of
Cabernet Sauvignon. The meat soaks up
the tannins of Cabernet, and the darker flavors of the wine seem to bring out
the best in the beef.
Consequently, in recent weeks I’ve been searching
for great Cabernets that also represents terrific value. I started the investigation in Washington
State, which can be a happy hunting ground for bottles that punch above their
weight in terms of QPR (Quality-Price Ratio).
Often, wines from Washington combine the great fruit of New World wines
with the structure and elegance of Old World styles. This is what I was hoping to find this time
out; a knockout wine at a great price.
Sad to say that the results thus far
have not yielded exactly what I was looking for. So, since the Voyager doesn’t want to leave
you high and dry on this special holiday, I took some detours and ventured
beyond Washington to see if we could come up with something that might fit the
bill. Here’s what I discovered on this
part of the journey…
2011
Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon: Fairly deep plum
color. Red fruits – especially raspberry
– are more prominent than the rather muted cassis in the background. Red fruits are also more emphatic on the
palate. In the past, I’ve always enjoyed
CSM wines from Indian Wells, but this is a bit bland. Query: would I even recognize this as a Cab
if I were tasting it blind? Not bad, but
below standard from this winery and this vineyard. **
 |
| A favorite from the past that was a little sub-par this time |
2011
Barnard Griffin Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley, Washington): I’ve liked wines from this vintner in the
past, but they seem to have lost their distributor in Colorado, so when I saw a
bottle in a store that I don’t typically frequent, I jumped on it. Medium garnet, with a fairly shy nose of
blackcurrant and subtle oak at first.
Opened out to sweeter red fruit scents and even hints of molasses
later. Both red and black fruits on the
palate, with strong black licorice flavors.
This is tannic stuff, pretty stern – definitely needs a steak to cut
through to the fruit. It became a little
less unyielding with air, and grew much softer and rounder after one day under
gas. In fact, after being preserved for
one night, I think I might have mistaken this for an Aussie Shiraz. An interesting evolution, but neither iteration
of this wine truly left me wanting more.
Not bad, but not the wine I was seeking.
**1/2
 |
| A charitable observer might call the black-and-white labels used by the Charles Smith winery as "bold," or "different." The Voyager has some other words in mind... |
2012
Charles Smith Chateau Smith Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley, Washington): Medium garnet. Red berry fruits, red currant aromas, with
some vanilla and sandelwood at first; with air, briary tones, but with some
sweetness and earthy funk as well. What
might sound like complexity was really just all over the place and a bit
unfocused. Big sweet fruit on the
attack; maybe a bit confected (see
below)? Drier through the mid-palate
and finish. Another wine made in the
style of an Australian Shiraz. Query: is
this a trend in winemaking in Washington State?
If so, it’s worrisome, as it’s not what has made Washington wines so
special in the past. **1/2
 |
| Another winery that has produced fine wines in the past, but wasn't quite up to snuff on this occasion... |
2011
Ex Libris Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington): Medium garnet (that phrase is beginning to
seem like part of a template, isn’t it?).
Very shy on the nose; some red fruits, some hints of vanilla, but not at
all forthcoming. Red fruits flavors
slightly more on show. Has some
elegance, but not many dimensions.
Pleasant enough, but a bit dull.
Another winery I’ve liked in the past that under-delivered on this
occasion. **1/2
So, since Washington State didn’t really
yield the goods this time, what can we pour that will be a little more
exciting? Let’s head to Argentina for a
moment, and try another Bordeaux grape that’s found a home in South
America. Everyone loves Malbec at the
moment – and who can blame them?
2013
Altos La Hormigas Clasico Malbec: Medium ruby.
Brambly earth tones on the nose, with strong scents of licorice and
cola. Red berry scents emerge with
air. Dark fruit on the attack; finish
marked by an earthier element, but not unpleasant. Well-balanced. Back when I worked in the trade, we would
have called this a “juicy” wine. It’s an
example of how Malbec found such huge favor in the marketplace: immediately
accessible fruit up front, but backed up by structure and complexity. Fine at $11.99 (regular price); exceptional
at the case price of $9.99. Altos Las
Hormigas, a winery with a very good track record, continues to excel. ***
(Wine
Word of the Day – CONFECTED: We say that a wine is confected when it has
been made in such a way as to emphasis sweeter fruit flavors at the expense of
other elements. A confected wine sometimes
tastes as if it's been manipulated too much in the cellar, and so doesn’t put
forward a true representation of the place where the grapes have been
grown. Many consumers like that blast of
sweet fruit, but for the Voyager, these bottles aren’t really what wine should
be about.)
So no real home runs this time – but the
hunt for the great value Cab will continue.
Check this space…
No comments:
Post a Comment