Anything but Chardonnay, Part I: Torrontes, Viognier, Arneis and Chenin Blanc

Wines from Italy, Australia, Argentina and South Africa feature in this post...

Sometimes, the experts lead public opinion.  At other times, the process is reversed.  In the 1970’s and 1980’s, as wines from California and other parts of the world challenged the dominance of Burgundy as the home of the greatest Chardonnays, this magnificent grape stood alone – as Shakespeare might have said, it “bestrode the [vinous] world like a Colossus.”  Wine critics fueled this trend, and at one point the word “Chardonnay” became practically synonymous with “white wine.”

As a result, practically every profit-conscious vintner on this earth started to plant Chardonnay.  Some of the results were quite good – but others, especially those vineyards planted in areas that are really too warm to produce fine Chards, turned out flabby, dull, taste-alike wines that were, to be candid, boring.  Consumers soon caught on, at least insofar as they recognized that Chardonnay was not a magic word that guaranteed fine wine.  The public started to turn away from this rising star, and thus the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement was born.

One unfortunate effect was that some consumers started to ignore even those Chardonnays that were indisputably among the world’s great white wines (e.g., Burgundy, and cooler-climate Chards from other great wine-producing regions).

However, the most salutary effect of ABC was that drinkers the world over started to explore alternative whites.  Sauvignon Blanc, often in well-priced versions from New Zealand and California, deservedly gained in popularity. 

Lately, however, savvy wine-drinkers have been moving farther afield, checking out delicious whites from all over the world.  Yours Truly has been doing the same, and this part of my vinous journey has been quite rewarding.  Here’s a sampler of international whites I’ve tried recently…

2011 Matteo Correggia Roero Arneis:  Medium gold.  White peach, almonds and a little hint of brass.  Pleasant citrus on the palate, with some nuttiness as well.  With air, the wine gained a silky texture.  Lemon notes on a finish of modest length. Tasted with roast chicken, and the word pleasant leaps to mind once again.  It’s a nice wine, with a degree of elegance – but no real wow factor.  Overpriced at the normal retail mark of $21.99; better, but not impressive, value at the case price of $17.59.  I remember, many years ago, wine pundits were at pains to try and identify an Italian candidate for the pantheon of the world’s great white wines.  Arneis was supposed to be one of the contenders.  On the basis of this bottle, I’d say that it’s a very well-qualified also-ran.   (Greco di Tufo, on the other hand…or some of the really fine Soaves that are emerging as a result of the efforts made by serious growers…)  Still, there’s enough here to merit trying bottlings from other producers.  ***  (NOTE: after one day under gas, I tried this a second time, after I had tasted a rather aggressive and clumsy New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.  On this second pass, the wine impressed me more.  Citrus notes emerged on the nose, and the smooth texture stood out to a greater degree.   Its elegance shone forth after the galumphing NZ Sauv Blanc.)

2013 Crios Torrontes:  Medium greenish-gold.  Big, open aromas of pear, stone fruit and slate.  Very attractive.  Lemon, lime and ginger scents scents came to the fore with air.  Something about its bouquet reminds me of Sauvignon Blanc, if you were somehow able to drain off all the gooseberry from SB.  Nice body, with a lovely, velvety texture.  Pear and pineapple flavors.  Query: was this wine a good match for roast chicken with herb gravy?  It might have overpowered the dish just a bit, but still enjoyable.  There’s a touch of spiciness in this that might have gone better with a dish that had more zest.  Lingering finish.  Nose more complex than the palate, which showcases power more than subtlety.  Still, a very well-made and interesting wine.  $13.99 regular price, which is good value; superb value at the case price of $11.19.  Torrontes clearly merits more investigation.  A gem from Argentina.  ***

2013 Alamos Torrontes (Salta district, Argentina):  Vivid greenish-gold.  A blast of citrus on the nose: orange, tangerine, lemon and pineapple scents all quite prominent, with undertones of ginger.  Tangy, slightly saline notes come forth on a  long finish.  Nothing shy about this wine!  A rather good match with Thai chicken in yellow curry sauce.  Not bad with shrimp fried rice, although in that case the wine was certainly more powerful than the dish.  This one was on sale for $8.99 (regular price $11.97), and is certainly fine value for money.  Like the Crios Torrontes, this one isn’t exactly subtle, but it’s fun, spicy and good with zesty food.  Once again, I found myself thinking that lovers of NZ Sauvignon Blanc would take to this wine.  *** 

(NOTE: Alamos is the entry-level wine from Nicholas Catena, one of Argentina’s largest – and best – wineries.  When looking for good value wines, Alamos bottlings are reliable and often over-deliver for the price.)

2012 Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier:  Pale green/gold.  An opening gambit of lavender, violets and Granny Smith apples on the nose, giving way to mowed hay and pear scents after the bottle had been open for a couple of hours.  Lemon and pear flavors at first, with a slightly sour finish.  Initially, not a great match with food (pasta primavera).  On this first pass, I wasn’t as impressed as I felt I should be, as Yalumba is typically a very good winery, and Viognier often performs well in Australia.  I saved half a bottle, and used Private Preserve, a canister of inert gas, to prevent the wine from oxidizing.  After two days under gas, the wine told an entirely different story, with bright, sweet fruit, rich honey and pear emerging, and much better with food (mixed green salad).  If I hadn’t given this wine a second chance, I would have missed something quite special.  ***1/2 - ****  The lesson here: if you can’t lay this wine down in a cellar for a year or two, do yourself a favor and double-decant to get the most out of this wine.   

What is double-decanting?  It’s actually very simple; first, pour the wine into a decanter (or any clean, glass container) – and then pour it back into the bottle.  This aerates the wine, exposing it to oxygen, which releases the chemical compounds that contain the aroma and flavor.  In this case, I’d double-decant two or three hours before serving, keeping the wine chilled in the meantime.